Exploring Rajasthan through the Eyes of a Solo Backpacker turned Car Driver

Learning to drive has been a boon.

As a kid, I had been entranced by the pictures of sand dunes and forts in school textbooks and children’s magazines. One particular image from a Tinkle issue – a coloured sketch of the Vijaya Stambh at Chittorgarh fort had stuck in my mind, and in 2013, on one of my solo trips, I finally set foot on the Chittorgarh fort, and was absolutely spellbound by the location atop a table-top hill and the scale of the area bounded by its imposing walls. I have explored Rajasthan further, making it a point to explore at least one new place every year. Until before the pandemic struck, I had visited almost every major city of Rajasthan and then some.

However, it has never been about the destination as far as Rajasthan is concerned. Looking through the State Roadways bus windows, or craning the neck out from cabs and fancily decked-up auto-rickshaws, I have often marvelled at the intriguing shifts in landscapes – straddled by the Aravallis intercepting you shortly after you have entered from the East, with its table-top ranges swishing across like stripes of a tiger, some covered in a rich green cloak, yet others balding with their denuding rocky surfaces exposed, flanked now by swathes of lush green agricultural land, now turning light brown or pink or yellow with short lean trees strewn around as if social-distancing since time immemorial, then slowly turning golden as the ground surface mutates into waves of sandy dunes of the Thar. Abandoned forts and fortress walls crown hill tops every few scores of kilometres. Further south near Mount Abu, the Aravallis look nothing short of a slice from the Western or Eastern Ghats.

There is also a vast Salt Lake (Sambhar) somewhere at the edge of the desert in the heart of Rajasthan. Villages only turn up after long sprees of nothingness, and even then they are a collation of a handful of houses. Dried river channels cross your path occasionally, their sandy beds hinting at an older time of more abundance. Camels trundle along serenaded by their handlers, their upturned mouths betraying an indifference towards their dreary lives. Nomadic herders appear out of nowhere with flocks of little sheep and goats. Deeper in the desert, if you’re lucky, you may spot a monitor lizard or a hyena lurking amidst the shrubs.

In all of my trips prior to the pandemic, I have often been constrained by the mode of transport. There have been points or locations on the routes, which I have earmarked to return to later at my own leisure, since stopping by then was not an option. There have been roads emanating from the main roads that have often left me wondering as to where they led to. Now at 35, after learning to drive, I finally have the wherewithal to indulge in the fantasies that I harboured while travelling in my erstwhile cloistered fashion. This is an album to celebrate the many facets of the Rajasthan landscape that I have chanced upon on my most recent and some of my very first ever self-driving trips, which will hopefully be enriched with future trips.

Adventure in the Aravalli: Indor Fort, Mewat

Ever since I moved to the suburbs of Gurgaon amidst the work-from-home regime, I have suddenly been presented with immense possibilities for indulging my wanderlust. On one recent weekend afternoon, I set out on my scooter in pursuit of a place called Rundh Indor which seemed on Google Maps to be home to a fort. Nestled in a cove of the low-lying Aravallis on the Haryana-Rajasthan border, Indor is a non-descript village, accessible by a narrow road that is flanked by the Aravallis on both sides beyond strips of agricultural land and a hamlet or two. The area is not so remote as it is sparsely populated.

Once at Indor, from the road, I could see a long fortress wall and the domes of a few structures stretching across the left-side Aravalli hills. Tantalising as it seemed, I still did not think of accessing the fort till I came across a rubbled track that looked like the approach road to the fort. After some dawdling, I finally gathered the courage to ride up the approach road till I came upon the base of the hill, where a young duo was contemplating accessing the fort themselves. In what was already quite a desolate location, my only chance at setting foot in the fort now hinged on me joining forces with a couple of rank strangers!

View of the Aravalli from the fort

Wary of any untoward incident, I followed the duo on the trek uphill using goat tracks. Once atop the fortress wall, the vastness of the fort immediately dawned upon us. Sprawling across at least one or two square kilometres of the hillside were disparate structures – palace-like havelis interspersed with domes and grand arched gateways – all in dilapidated condition and swamped in typical Aravalli vegetation. And nary a living being in sight! We waded through the thick jungle from structure to structure, with the fear of snakes, wild animals and miscreants writ large on our faces. However, the fear was amply compensated by a breathtaking sight of the Aravallis stretching endlessly on the opposite side of the fort.

It was only when the sunlight began to dim that we realized it was already 5.30pm and we had advanced a long way into the fort area. Turning, we were confronted with tracing an uncharted path back just like our way up. Luckily, climbing atop a crumbling wall gave us a clear line of sight to the place where our scooters were parked. Treating the direction as sort of a North star, we trekked down the hillside until we reached a huge depression – our final hurdle. The fortress wall swerving around the depression was broken, making access through it precarious too. Crawling over the broken portion of the wall, we were finally outside the fort precincts. Within minutes, we were back riding on the way home even as the sun set behind the Aravallis.