Travel – The Timber Trawler

Musings in Malwa: Mandu

Right on the heels of the Aurangabad affair, we took an overnight bus that rocked and rollicked its way to Indore, where we learnt that the self-drive car that we had booked much in advance was no longer available. Fortunately, a cab through the hotel concierge became available on short notice. It was now time to explore a couple of prominent places of Malwa, a historical region in Central India, that flourished under the Mauryas, Guptas, Paramaras, and later the Malwa Sultanate. So off we set for Mandu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site candidate, 100 km away from Indore, via Dhar.

Our relief was short-lived, as the driver, a sexagenarian, instead of taking us through the spanking new highway, chose older run-down roads, probably to save on toll charges. What ensued was a race against time, given the fact that winter had commenced, and the monuments would close early. As we headed towards Dhar, I kept ruing the fact that I had not tried harder for an alternative self-drive option. Nevertheless, we finally entered Dhar after a 2-hour drive, something that should have taken only an hour via the highway.

Dhar is a historic town, a prominent center of power and culture, founded in the 9th century by the Paramaras. It flourished under King Bhoja, renowned for his patronage of learning and arts, and a legendary figure who is the subject in the frame story of the Singhasana Battissi (the 32 tales of Vikramditya’s Throne). Dhar later became part of the Delhi Sultanate, the Malwa Sultanate, and the Maratha Empire. Its architectural heritage includes the Dhar fort and the Bhoj Shala, an ancient Sanskrit learning center, purported to be patronized by Bhoja himself. Dhar’s rich history reflects a blend of Hindu and Islamic influences.

Moving on, we snaked up a gentle slope to reach the top of a vast flat top hill in the Vindhya range, welcomed by a gate in a thick stone wall that once fortified Mandu. Mandu, erstwhile ‘Mandapa Durga’, flourished under the Paramaras in the 10th century, but reached its zenith after being made the capital of the Malwa Sultanate by Hoshang Shah of the Ghuri dynasty, followed by the rule of the Khalji dynasty. The legacy of the Malwa Sultanate lives on in structures such as Hoshang Shah’s Tomb, India’s first marble mausoleum, and Jahaz Mahal, an engineering marvel. Mandu’s romance is immortalized in tales of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati.

By 3 PM, we were finally inside Mandu’s fort walls, woefully late, only to learn that access or at least the visiting hours would be limited due to a G20 event involving foreign dignitaries! At break-neck speed, we made a tour of the Jahaz Mahal, where we were told we had only about an hour, before access was stopped to the public to cater to the dignitaries. Jahaz Mahal was built as a harem by Ghiyas-ud-din Khalji, a patron of the arts, to resemble a ship afloat the artificial water bodies surrounding it. A two-storeyed structure, it also features a small pool with flower-shaped outline on each storey.

The Jahaz Mahal, the Ship Palace, at Mandu, built by Ghiyas-ud-din Khalji between 1469 and 1500 AD.

In the vicinity is the Hindola Mahal, a meeting hall structure resembling a swing, due to its sloping sides. Alongside it are other structures, forming part of the royal complex, such as the Champa Baodi, a well that once held water smelling of champak flowers, sitting beneath and accessed through a mesh of subterranean passages, and the Hammam, the Turkish-style royal bath, adjacent to the well. Gardens, and other structures such as the Jal Mahal on the Munja Talao behind Jahaz Mahal, and the Taveli Mahal on the Kapur Talao in front of Jahaz Mahal, complement the splendour of the royal complex.

The Hindola Mahal, Swing Palace, a meeting hall

Driving further south, we passed by Hoshang Shah’s tomb, the Jami Masjid and the Sagar Talao to reach the southern edge of the hill, about 4 km from the Jahaz Mahal complex. This region houses the Baz Bahadur Palace. The last ruler of the Malwa Sultanate, Baz Bahadur’s liaison with the musically-inclined shepherdess, later queen, Roopmati became the stuff of Malwa legends. He built the adjacent Rewa Kund, a lake connected to the Narmada river, revered by Roopmati as a mother. When Baz Bahadur fled facing a debilitating defeat at the hands of the Mughals, Roopmati committed suicide believing her beloved to be dead.

It was well past 5.30 pm, when we reached Roopmati’s Pavilion, the final destination of the tour. Sitting at the absolute edge of the hill, the simple structure attributed to Roopmati, served as a viewing post in times of invasion, providing views of the Narmada Valley in the erstwhile Nimar region. The sight of the Malwa landscape replete with its plains punctuated with little water bodies and the top of the flat hills awash in the twilight, provided a fitting end to a whirlwind tour of a shining gem of India’s heritage with its blend of Afghan, Hindu, and Mughal architectural influences.

Roopmati’s Pavilion at the fort’s southern edge

How to visit Mandu and Dhar

Dhar and Mandu can be reached only by road from Indore or from Ratlam. Indore is connected by flight, train and road, whereas Ratlam, which lies on the Delhi-Mumbai railway line, is connected by rail and road.

Mandu is 2 hours from Indore, whether you go via Dhar or not – the route via Dhar is longer in distance but takes the same time as the non-Dhar route.

Mandu is so vast that you could easily spend two days with an intervening night at any of the hotels and resorts. You can squeeze in Dhar either on the onward or return leg, if you are interested.

Think of Mandu as a place to see things in three clusters:
1. The Royal Complex comprising Jahaz Mahal, Hindola Mahal, etc., in the north
2. The Village area with monuments such as Hoshang Shah’s Tomb, the Jami Masjid, and Ashrafi Mahal, in between the north and the centre of the fort area
3. Rewa Kund Group with Baz Bahadur Palace, Rewa Kund and Rani Roopmati Pavilion at the extreme south of the fort area

Apart from the above, you also can see the Sagar Talao at the centre of the fort, the Darwazas (gates) on the fort wall, 6th century Jain caves, multiple minor structures, little forts, and an echo point, where you can hear your own echo if you shout with an appropriate intensity.

Guide fee at the Royal Complex: Rs. 450 for a group of 4-5 people, as of November 2024.

Better to complete your visits of the monuments by 5 PM, although you do have access to the Jahaz Mahal at 7 PM for the Light and Sound show.

The Aurangabad Affair: Ellora, Ajanta and Daulatabad

This November, almost 5 years to the time this trip was first mooted, we managed to set foot in Aurangabad. Back then, the first Covid-19 lockdown had come into force just as we were about to book our air tickets. Aurangabad would be the gateway to the Ajanta and Ellora caves, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, which had been on my bucket list since I first learnt about them in school. The trip had been getting deferred for so long that I was prompted to take a virtual 3D tour of the Ajanta Caves at the National Museum in Delhi in the intervening years, to get a taste of the caves. Nevertheless, the real trip was worth the wait.

Ellora

Ellora, 33 km northwest of Aurangabad, is home to more than 100 Hindu, Buddhist and Jain caves, created between 6th and 11th century, out of which 34 are open to the public. The main highlight is the chariot-shaped Kailasa temple, the largest single monolithic excavation in the world, carved out from the sloping basalt hillside. The Kailasa temple, dedicated to Shiva, is believed to have been built, for most part, by the Rastrakuta king Krishna I sometime in between 756 and 773 AD, with later parts added by later Rashtrakuta kings. The temple features many Hindu deities, animals, especially, the elephant, lion and horse, and summaries of the epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata in relief.

The earliest caves are purported to be of Hindu origin, and built around 550 to 600 AD with the patronage of Traikutakas and Vakatakas. This seems to have been followed by the Buddhist ones, 11 of which are viharas (monasteries) with the remaining one being a chaitya (place of worship), built in between 600 to 730 AD with the support of Chalukyas. The latter Hindu caves, of which the Kailasa temple is one, seems to have overlapped with the excavation of earliest Jain caves, with the Jain caves exhibiting imagery of Hindu influence. The earliest Jain caves are purported to have been patronized by Rastrakutas, while the latter ones by the Yadava dynasty.

On the right side alley inside the Kailasa temple premise. The ‘victory’ tower appears on the 20-rupee note. The friezes (rows of tiny carvings) on the rectangular area near the middle is a summary of the Ramayana. Kailasa temple is designated Cave no. 16.

Ajanta

The defining feature of the Ajanta caves, 100 km north-east of Aurangabad, seems to be the alignment of caves in a horse-shoe shape around a sharp bend of the Waghura river. Whereas, the Ellora caves are located alongside a highway, the Ajanta caves are tucked 4km away from the main road in a valley, which can be accessed by the tourist only by buses run by the tourism department. A steep staircase, which can be bypassed using an adjacent long winding ramp, then leads to the planes where 30 caves lie. The caves, built between 2nd century BC and 5th century AD, comprising 5 chaityas (places of worship) and 25 viharas (monasteries) belong to both the Hinayana and Mahayana sects of Buddhism.

Of main interest are the frescoes on the ceilings and walls of the caves, with most of the paintings depicting the Jataka tales, stories of Buddha’s previous births. Most notable of these are life-size paintings of the Bodhisattvas Padmapani and Vajrapani in Cave no. 1. With the earliest cave excavations corresponding to the prevalence of Hinayana Buddhism, the shift to Mahayana Buddhism is visible in the caves where idols of Buddha and ostentatious carvings on entrances, in case of chaityas, and frescoes, in case of viharas, exist. A notable sculpture in relief is that of the Mahaparinirvana of Buddha, i.e. Dying Buddha in the left aisle of Cave no. 26. Besides, one is treated to excellent views of the horseshoe-shaped valley from almost all points.

At the start of the cave trail in Ajanta

The famed Padmapani, a nickname of Avalokiteśvara, who is a Boddhisatva associated with compassion. It is present in Cave No. 1 on the left side of the entrance of the shrine.

Shaddanta Jataka: six-tusked elephant giving away his tusks Cave no. 17

Cave 10 – A chaitya (worship hall) of the Hinayana sect, with no image of the Buddha carved on the stupa

Daulatabad

Midway between Aurangabad and Ellora, lies Daulatabad Fort, a remarkable 12th-century hilltop fortress. Originally constructed by the Yadava dynasty and named Devagiri (the Hill of Gods), it gained prominence when Sultan Muhammad bin Tughlaq renamed it Daulatabad (City of Prosperity) and briefly shifted his capital there in the 14th century. Later, it was taken over by the Bahmani Sultanate. Among the fort’s notable structures is the Chand Minar (Tower of the Moon), a striking 30-meter-high tower built in 1445 by Ala-ud-din Ahmad II of the Bahmani Sultanate after his victory against the Vijayanagara kingdom. Inspired by the Qutb Minar in Delhi, the tower is adorned with Persian-style blue tiles and intricate carvings, and is said to be visible from every corner of the fort.

The fort’s defining feature is its ingenious defensive design, incorporating multiple strategic layers to thwart invaders. It begins with an outer wall encircling a moat at the foothill as the first line of defense, followed by an intermediate wall and then an inner wall surrounding another deep moat with no bridges, carved directly into the hillside Beyond these lies a maze of tunnels with dead ends and concealed porches where soldiers could ambush attackers. These tunnels lead to a steep flight of stairs ascending to the fort’s highest point. Along the way, enormous cannons dot the trail, which comprises 750 steps from bottom to top. The challenging climb is well worth it, offering exhilarating views of the Deccan countryside from various vantage points.

Inside the elongated entrance of Daulatabad fort

Honorable Mention: Bibi Ka Maqbara

Located in Aurangabad, Bibi ka Maqbara, is a 17th-century mausoleum built by Prince Azam Shah, one of Aurangzeb’s sons, in memory of his mother, Dilras Banu Begum. Often called the ‘Taj of the Deccan’ due to its resemblance to the Taj Mahal, it was constructed between 1651 and 1661 under Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb’s reign. The structure features a central marble dome surrounded by four minarets and is set amidst landscaped gardens with intricate pathways and fountains. Though less ornate than the Taj Mahal, its elegant Mughal architecture and historical significance make it a prominent monument of the region.

Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Grishneswara Jyotirlinga temple and Ellora Caves
Day 2: Ajanta Caves
Day 3: Shirdi
Day 4: Daulatabad and Aurangabad

Information for Visitors

Ellora
1 hour drive from Aurangabad. Best to book a cab.
You will need the the whole day (6-8 hours) if you wish to you see Caves 1 – 34.
To see the most notable ones, reserve 4 hours, out of which 2 would be spent in the Kailasa temple (Cave No. 16).
Caves 1 – 12 are Buddhist. Most notable are Caves 5 (Maharwada), 10 (Vishwakarma’s) and 12 (Teen Taal).
Caves 13 – 29 are Hindu. Most notable are Caves 15 (Dashavatara), 16 (Kailasa temple), 21 (Rameshwar temple) and 29 (Dhumar Lena).
Caves 30 – 34 are Jain with sprinklings of Hindu influence. Most notable are 30 (Chhota Kailash), 32 (Indra Sabha) and 33 (Jagannatha Sabha).

Guide fee: 2050 (for a group of 5), half day (2-4 hours) as of November 2024.

Ajanta
100 km/3 hour drive from Aurangabad. Begin early from Aurangabad, if you wish to see the whole trail.
You will need 6-8 hours if you wish to peruse the frescoes and stone art in more detail. The corpus of frescoes is humongous, and in fact would require multiple days to go through.

There are 30 caves, all Buddhist, out which 26 are open to the public.
Of the 30 caves, 4 are chaityas (worship halls): Caves 9, 10, 19 and 26, all notable.
Out of the remaining caves, all viharas (monasteries/resting places), the most notable are 1, 2, 6, 16 and 17.
Of the unfinished caves, the most notable is Cave 24.

Guide fee: 2050 (for a group of 5), half day (2-4 hours) as of November 2024.

While porter facility is available for ferrying people, if mobility is still possible, as in case of senior citizens, you can still bypass the initial long flight of stairs using a long winding ramp.
Another hack is a path which starts to the left of the aforementioned flight of stairs, crosses the Waghura river, running alongside it for a distance before crossing it once again to meet in front of Cave 8. In fact, this path is the recommended exit from the Cave trail.

Daulatabad fort

A 40 minute drive from from Aurangabad. Be prepared for a steep climb after about 60% of the trail, i.e. after the Andheri, the zig-zag tunnels. Carry water, wear comfortable clothes and appropriate shoes.

I highly recommend doing the trail till the end of the Andheri, which should require about 2 hours for the round trip.
For those on a time-squeeze, or with mobility issues, go till the Kalakot, or if you could push yourself just a little bit, then till the Khandak, the inner moat before the Andheri begins.

The round trip till the top and back could be 3 to 4 hours depending on your ability to manage your breath and exhaustion in the last 40% of the trail. All told there are 750 steps in the complete trail from bottom to top.

Jodhpur Journal: Three Discoveries At the Edge of the Thar

In October, during a brief illness, I got hooked on a book I had picked up in Udaipur in 2019 – Rajasthan: An Oral History, written by Rustom Bharucha, based on his conversations with the late Komal Kothari. Komal Kothari, who spent most of his prime documenting the folk music instruments, oral traditions and puppetry of Rajasthan, was instrumental in popularizing Managaniyar and Langa musicianship globally.

Komal Kothari’s insights into the relationship of the Rajasthani populace with their geography, natural elements, especially the arid stretches, their folk deities and folk traditions, as well as the intriguing interrelations amongst the various Rajasthani communities, left me in a trance. It was as if dormant connections to a distant past of mine were suddenly awakened. Besides, Komal Kothari lived in Jodhpur.

Now, since my 2019 outing to the Thar, Jodhpur had remained crouching in a corner of my mind. Mentions of Jodhpur anywhere, be it on social media, or television, or cinema, or by a friend, would stir long-repressed longings to go back to the city cradled in swathes of red-coloured escarpments. In two previous outings, everything that had to be seen in Jodhpur was already done and dusted with. Or, was it?

Nevertheless, in mid-November, my parents and I set off on our first-ever self-drive trip to Jodhpur via Salasar and Nagaur. What would follow was a spree of educational experiences: two involving things I had discovered about Jodhpur since our last outing, spurred somewhat by my reading during the intervening pandemic. And, a third we would just stumble into, and be pleasantly surprised by, despite my initial reluctance to indulge it.

A Living Museum

In an abandoned rock mine, on the low hill ranges encircling the western outskirts of Jodhpur, now covered with a blanket of grass and shrub, punctuated with the inimitable trio of ker, sangri and kumat trees, is located a unique interpretation of a museum. Arna Jharna Desert Musuem, literally meaning ‘forest and spring’, was the brainchild of Komal Kothari, who envisaged it as a showcase for the daily life of the regular desert folk.

The museum began with a single concept of displaying an object that is inseparable from daily life across all communities – the broom. On display in a cluster of huts are many more elements of daily life – pottery, utensils, storage spaces, cooking apparatus. Also on display are aspects of folk culture and indigenous knowledge systems. For instance, a humongous collection of musical instruments used across Rajasthan curated by Komal Kothari himself through his lifetime.

The most intriguing exhibit is a contraption serving as a portable shrine, called the kavad. A cupboard-like structure with multiple folds that can be progressively unfurled to reveal layers of shelves, it houses deities and pictorial depictions of religious stories and epics. The shrine moves from one place to another, accompanied by the storyteller, invariably from the bhat community, where he would narrate stories of the gods, folk-gods or epics to the patrons. Oftentimes, in the past, the patron would have a hereditary relationship with the bhat.

Walk towards the rear of the cluster of huts through the tall grass, and you reach the edge of a ravine with a stream that turns into a waterfall when it rains. The set-up of the huts in a cluster in a vastly open space reflects the general pattern of how habitation exists in and around the desert. The museum is highly recommended if one is keen for a glimpse into daily life in the desert, and into how daily life practices and processes have evolved within the ecological constraints of the desert.

A snapshot of the cluster of huts in the Arna Jharna Musuem

A Nature Park

During the pandemic, I came across an interesting essay titled ‘Dying to Live’ in an anthology called Journeys through Rajasthan. Penned by the filmmaker-turned-naturalist, Pradip Krishen, it chronicles how a rocky desert landscape overrun by an invasive species mesquite (Prosopis Juliflora), colloquially called ‘bawlia’, was painstakingly transformed into a desert rock park through rewilding with desert-native plant species.

In fact, I had often wondered what lay behind the rocky outcrop holding up the Mehrangarh fort, and it turned out, it was this very park, the Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park. On our 2019 Jodhpur trip, we had even driven past the park on our way to Jaisalmer, but I had little idea back then that it was anything remarkable. Not until I learnt that the area in and around Mehrangarh fort was the site of not one, but two Geological Monuments of India – Jodhpur Group–Malani Igneous Suite Contact and Welded Tuff.

The Malani Igneous Suite consists of a variety of rock formations which resulted from a volcanic event occurring 750 million years ago. However, one variety of orange-pink coloured flat-faced columnar rock formations called rhyolite, is remarkable in that the Mehrangarh fort sits atop one such formation. And so does the park, sprawling across eroded hills and valleys of rhyolite, sprinkled with bits of welded tuff, another rock formed during the Malani event.

The park welcomes you with an assortment of rock sample exhibits, sourced from the western part of the subcontinent stretching from the Indus basin through the Thar desert to the Kachchh, with most from rock systems formed tens of millions years ago to more than a billion years ago. The most fascinating exhibit is a 635 million year old sample from the ‘Sonia Sandstone Formation’ near Jodhpur, containing ‘trace fossils’, which are traces of movements and burrows in the mud left behind by some of the earliest organisms which had no hard parts that could fossilize.

Just entering the arched stone gate where the ticket counter is located, one comes across an array of desert microhabitats that acts as a nursery for desert native plants. From that point on, a flight of stairs leads down to a 500 year old rainwater canal that channels water to the Ranisar and Padamsar lakes, some of Jodhpur’s oldest water reservoirs, located at the opposite end of the park. The canal, called the Hathi Nahar (elephant canal), which serves as one of the four trails earmarked in the park, cuts through a welded tuff formation, and soon meets a path that leads to the aforementioned lakes.

Another trail runs along the ancient city wall that also serves as a boundary wall for the park, and yet another trail meanders through the rewilded forest comprising more than 250 plant species. From most points of the park, one is treated to exhilarating views of the profile of the fort from various angles. My favorite location was from the edge of the Padamsar lake. Or was it from just below the foothills of the rhyolite hill on which the fort is located? I am confused.

Entrance of the Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park

An Unusual Safari

All this while, I had been debating with myself and my parents whether we should venture into a heritage or village style accommodation for the remaining night. Searching online, I had zeroed in on one candidate, Bishnoi Village Camp and Resort, located 30 km to the south of Jodhpur, somewhere in between Mogra Kalan and Kankani. Circumspect for the better part of the two preceding days, yet encouraged by many stellar recommendations of foreign tourists, we headed off to the resort.

And boy, were we bowled over by the host, who showered special attention on us, given that we were the only guests for that particular night. Following a late evening safari through the nearby villages, where we visited the workshops of craftsmen showcasing pottery, bedsheets and durries, we were treated to a most satiating and authentic Rajasthani meal, which included, among many things, bajra (millet) roti, kadhi, and the delectable Ker Sangri fortified with kumat.

The next morning was a revelation of sorts, when we set out for a 7AM early winter safari to see the elusive blackbuck and the migratory demoiselle crane, colloquially called kurja. Imagine the surprise when we learned that we had been staying in the same area where the infamous 1998 blackbuck hunting which had offended the Bishnois, had occurred .

The Bishnoi community, in deference to rules set down by their founding guru Jambheswar, protects wildlife and vegetation, sometimes, with their lives. Testament to this is the 1730 AD incident from nearby Khejarli village, where a Bishnoi woman, Amrita Devi along with her three daughters, gave up their lives protecting khejri trees from the felling attempts of the king’s soldiers, triggering a wave of such sacrifices in 82 other Bishnoi villages where tree-felling had commenced. With the final tally reportedly reaching 383, the king, eventually, had to ask for forgiveness and abort the tree-felling activity.

The blackbuck is even more sacred to the Bishnoi community, as Guru Jambheswar is purported to be reborn as a blackbuck. No wonder then that our safari included a stop at a memorial built by the Bishnois for the slain blackbuck. Then crossing the saline Luni river, the largest river of the Thar, and the only one that originates at Pushkar and ends in the Rann of Kachchh, we ventured into blackbuck territory. And lo and behold, in open spaces hidden behind curtains of bushes, we sighted a group of nearly 50.

However, as I learned, sighting blackbucks is not the challenge – it is just that the male blackbuck, which the layman has an image of in the form of a black upper body and white underbody, with long antlers, is rarer than the female blackbucks which have a brown upper body. Male blackbucks engage in lekking, whereby a single male takes control of a territory comprising multiple females and juveniles, driving away other males through aggressive means. It was interesting, however, to see two to three groups of blackbucks, led by their respective leading male blackbuck, mingling, while two male blackbucks at separate locations trudged through the forest, alone, in the distance.

With rapid urbanization, the wilderness available to species such as the blackbuck has rapidly shrunk. The forested area where we spotted the blackbucks, have, in fact, already been earmarked for future industrial development. It will not be long before the blackbuck population will be further impacted. Sadly, the convictions of the Bishnoi community can only do so much against this new advancing frontier.

A glimpse of the Bishnoi Village and Camp Resort

Details for Visitors/Guests

Arna Jharna Museum

Entry fee: Rs. 100 per person
Visiting hours: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM

The museum also conducts cultural folk programmes on occassion.

Drive from Jodhpur to the museum is remarkable.

Rao Jodha Desert Park

Entry fee: Rs. 100 per person
Visiting hours:
March to September: 6:30 am to 7 pm
October to February: 7:30 am to 6 pm

There are four trails, out of which three are in the area below the fort, i.e. the area which has been vigorously rewilded, and a fourth is around the Devkund lake, which lies adjacent to the Jaswant Thada, a short walk/drive away.

If time was a constraint, I would do the Yellow trail, to get a more involving flavour of the rewilding done in the park.

In warmer months, the trails are best done in the morning or evening.

Unsurprisingly, the park is at its beautiful best during the monsoons.

Keep an eye on their Instagram page to keep track of guided tours and other organized events.

Bishnoi Village and Camp Resort

Blackbuck and Village safari: Rs. 3000 for a group of 4-5 persons

Meandering in the Monsoons: Bijolia, Banswara, Arthuna and Udaipur

Continuing the tradition of the annual self-drive family trip, this year we decided to explore the lesser-known side of Rajasthan. Of course, this trip came about after having exhausted the roster of all the well-known Rajasthani cities, except Barmer, but it was really hastened by the incidence of the monsoons. It was now time to experience something different than the arid landscapes, desert expanses, and mountainous folds of the Aravallis. What better region than the south-western part of Rajasthan to soak in the splendour of the rain-sprinkled countryside?

The place in focus on this trip was Banswara, touted as the ‘city of 100 islands’—a place many travel bloggers exhorted to visit, specifically in the monsoons. However, Banswara, being a good 800 km from Gurgaon, necessitated stops, and the stops were better worth it. Those stops turned out to be Chittorgarh on the outward leg and Udaipur on the return, thus helping me fulfil my mother’s long-cherished wish of seeing Nathdwara and Ranakpur, and my own wish of showing my brother Kumbhalgarh. In fact, we did the latter three stops on the same day, surprising even ourselves!

As usual, we did not book accommodations beforehand, and simply let serendipity be our guide. That’s how I found myself at Chittorgarh Fort, at the same place, the same day I was 10 years ago. That’s how we beheld the beauty of a temple complex getting showered in a cloudburst. That’s how we chanced upon a temple complex with a waterfall, straight from the imagery of an Indiana Jones movie. That’s how we found ourselves meandering upon the low rolling hills leading to and adorning the course of the mighty river Mahi, with intermittent spells of monsoon rains for company.

Highlights of the road-trip

Mandakini Temple, Bijolia

This temple complex comprises three Shiva temples – the oldest being from the 11th century called Mahakal – and a water tank, and lay just beside our route to Chittorgarh. Just as we stepped out of the car, there was a cloudburst, forcing us to run inside the temple complex and take shelter under the roof of one the temples.

Main temple inside Mandakini temple complex, Bijolia

Menal and Mahanal temples, Menal

This was just an unexpected, happy accident that happened because my brother was simply scanning Google Maps on our way to Chittorgarh. The 11th century Shiva temple complex lies just beside the highway, nestled in a forest, straddling a stream with a waterfall dropping into a gorge. Across the steep waterfall is one of the temples, with an adjoining monastery in ruins, which one can access by simply crossing the stream before it drops into the gorge. Now, that’s truly a set-up venturing into Indiana Jones territory.

Menal waterfall with temple across the gorge

Chittorgarh

What can be said in a line or two about Chittor fort that would capture what it is, what it stands for, what legacy it bears, what history it has seen!

But what struck me most upon first visiting the place, and has remained with me since, is how it is a self-contained city spread upon a vast flat-topped hill, like on a plateau. The palaces and structures are far-flung, interspersed with water tanks and jungle. This is a place that is removed from the rest of the world that lies beneath, one that transports you to another era as a time machine.

Samadhiswara temple in Chittorgarh fort premises

Banswara

Banswara region lies in the Mahi catchment area in south-west Rajasthan, and is home to the massive Mahi Dam. The region is typified by low rolling hills undulating for miles, whose tops turn into meadows in the monsoons, evoking scenes from a Kashmiri landscape. This topographical feature has also led to formation of islands in the reservoir created by the Mahi Dam.

The road, winding across the ridges, leading to a village called Chacha Kota, affords a roller-coaster like ride with breathtaking views of the low rolling hills stretching to the horizon, as well as the islands in the reservoir. With overcast skies, you might even feel you’re gliding through the clouds.

Another point of significance is the long Maharana Pratap Setu (Bridge) over the Mahi River on the road to Ratlam, where the Tropic of Cancer also passes through.

Maharana Pratap Setu (Bridge) over Mahi River

Arthuna

Arthuna, also called Utthunaka, the capital of the Paramaras of Vagad in the 11th-12 century AD, was an important commercial centre at the time. Home to a complex containing multiple temples, from the same period, dedicated to Shiva, and a stepped tank. What is interesting is that outside this complex, there are ruins of even larger temples, and several mounds probably concealing even more structures.

Nathdwara

Home to the temple of Shrinathji, an infant form of Krishna.

Ranakpur

A 15th century Jain temple built entirely in marble sits majestically in the jungle at the Aravalli foothills. I would put this temple alongside the Taj Mahal as a mediaeval wonder of India.

Kumbhalgarh

Another historic fort, the birthplace of the legendary Maharana Pratap, and hailed as the fort with the longest fortification wall in India (2nd in the world) at 36 km. From the top of the main palace, aptly named Badal Mahal (or Palace of the Clouds), it is said, one can see the Marwar on one side, and Mewar on the other.

Rakt Talai (Pool of Blood)

As one crosses Haldighati pass, the region around which served as the battleground between the armies of Maharana Pratap and Akbar, and reaches Khamnore, there comes a depressed patch of land where a pond is said to have existed. The pond is said to have turned red with rainwater that trickled down into it, after mixing with the blood of those fallen in the battle of Haldighati on 18 June 1576.

Trip Summary

Day 1:
Gurugram to Chittorgarh via Bijolia and Menal

Day 2:
Chittaurgarh fort, and then on to Banswara

Day 3:
Banswara and thereabouts including Mahi River Bridge, Chacha Kota and Mahi Dam.
On to Udaipur via Arthuna and Dungarpur

Day 4:
Udaipur to Nathdwara, then on to Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh, and back to Udaipur

Day 5:
Udaipur to Gurugram via Haldighati and Bhilwara

Trip maps

Trip Map Part 1: Day 1 & 2 (Gurugram to Banswara)

Trip Map Part 2: Day 3 (Gurugram to Banswara)

Trip Map Part 3: Day 4 & 5 (Udaipur to Gurugram)

Trip statistics

Uncovering Khetri : A Hidden Gem in the Shekhawati

In my search for places that could be visited on a single day trip from Gurugram, Khetri seemed to pop up on a few occasions. I did try to plan a Khetri trip a few times over the last three years, even attempting to rope in my colleagues once, but it was not to be, especially since it would need a detour from all the major roads. I also abolished thoughts of doing a solo drive to Khetri because I was uncertain about the condition of roads and the remoteness I would encounter.

That was until the time my parents were here in Gurugram, and we really had to find something for a day trip before they returned to Odisha. While mother is always excited for any arbitrary new place, father only agreed once I brought to the fore the connection of Khetri with Swami Vivekananda. So, off we started on a mid-December morning around 10 AM in the quest to uncover Khetri.

We first drove towards and bypassed Rewari, then took NH 11 – that runs westwards to Jaisalmer through Jhunjunu – till Singhana, and then turned to the left, passing first by a low stretch of the Aravalli, and then approaching a pass in a cluster of the low Aravalli hills. Soon we were flanked by the Aravallis on both the sides, as we drove up the road winding through the pass, and finally reached a wide patch of undulating land surrounded by the Aravallis, with low houses and buildings sprawling across the dry valley, and swarming with people betraying a certain laid-backness in their demeanour.

On the way to Khetri, taking a turn from Singhana

It already being 1.30 PM, we asked around for a good place to have lunch, and took a hairpin upturned bend from the main road, reaching a haveli that once belonged to the royal dynasty. Now turned into Hotel Haridiya Heritage, the haveli is located higher than most of the town, affording a view of the erstwhile king’s palace which lies almost adjacent to it, and a view of the Aravallis running on the other side of the town. Photographs and souvenirs from the past adorn the walls of the main hall transporting one to a more circumspect time, convincing us that the haveli would be a good retreat for someone looking to spend time in Khetri.

Main hall of the Haridiya Heritage Hotel

Our next stop following lunch was the royal palace which has since been given over to the Ramakrishna Mission who now run the mission in part of the palace. The remaining part has been turned into the Ajit-Vivek museum dedicated to displaying the life and teachings of Swami Vivekananda. But why is this quaint little town nestled in the Aravallis being spoken of in the same breath as a monk from Bengal, a land in the east of India? Well, this seems like a good point to take a detour and learn about the connection between Khetri and Swami Vivekananda.

Khetri and Swami Vivekananda

After starting his life as a wandering monk in 1888, Swami Vivekanand first set foot in Khetri in June 1891, meeting Ajit Singh, the ruler of the Shekhawat estate (thikana) of Khetri. Following a discussion on a wide range of subjects, Ajit Singh invited Vivekananda for dinner. Vivekananda ended up staying in Khetri from 4 June 1891 to 27 October 1891, during which period Ajit Singh taught Vivekananda to wear a turban in the Rajasthani style to protect him from the hot wind blowing in the area. With variations added of his own, Vivekananda made the turban a staple of his life, as evident from most of the well-known pictures of the monk. A teacher-disciple relationship and a life-long friendship had begun.

Vivekananda visited and stayed in Khetri a second time from 21 April 1893 to 10 May 1893. Learning of his wish to participate in the Parliament of World’s Religions as a speaker, Ajit Singh readily provided him with financial aid, and the tickets for the voyage, even escorting him till Jaipur, from whereon Ajit Singh’s Munshi escorted Vivekananda till Bombay. Purportedly upon Ajit Singh’s request, the monk also assumed the monastic name Vivekananda replacing his then-assumed name Vividishananda. The two remained in correspondence during Vivekananda’s stay in the west, with Ajit Singh providing him financial support whenever required.

Vivekananda visited Khetri a third and final time in 1897, upon Ajit Singh’s invitation, where he gave a lecture attended by Ajit Singh and many Eurpoean guests. During this visit, Vivekananda openly expressed his gratitude to Ajit Singh for his support. In 1898, Vivekananda requested that a monthly stipend given by Ajit Singh to his mother, be made permanent even after Vivekananda’s death. Ajit Singh honoured this arrangement, without publicising this, till his death in 1901 due to a collapse of a tower he was standing on, at the age of 39. Incidentally, Swami Vivekananda also died at the age of 39, the following year.

In 1958, Ajit Singh’s grandson, Bahadur Sardar Singh donated the then abandoned and dilapidated Palace of Khetri to the Ramakrishna Mission, who cleared and restored one part of the palace to establish a mission. Later, another part of the building, Fateh Vilas, was turned into a museum showing Vivekanda’s life and teachings, while also honouring Ajit Singh. The room overlooking the town and the Aravallis, where Vivekananda lived during his stays in Khetri has now been turned into a prayer room. Some letters of correspondence between Vivekananda and Ajit Singh are also on display.

Front courtyard and entrance of the Ajit-Vivek Museum

*************

Offering our prayers in the prayer room, we then proceeded to the 270 year-old Bhopalgarh fort that beckoned us from the hilltop in the distance. Taking a steep two-kilometre winding road we were at the fort’s gate around 3.30 PM, with the Khetri town visible down below. Entering the fort premises, we immediately got a bearing of the area – the fort wall encloses an area shaped like a trapezoid, with most of the inner part depressed, resembling a wide crater.

Half a kilometre to the right of the entrance, bang on the fort wall is a palace sporting multiple windows and balconies, called the Sheesh Mahal, which is currently closed for renovation. Peeking in from the corridor at the main gateway, one could see a large courtyard and multiple storied halls and rooms surrounding the hall. Walking beyond the palace on the fort wall, one gets a clearer view of the Khetri town and the surroundings, including some now-defunct copper mines, nestled in the Aravallis.

Sheesh Mahal which lies adjunct to the fort wall on the right side of fort entrance

From the side of the entrance and the walls stretching on both sides of the entrance, one can clearly see the Moti Mahal, an elongated palace, located at the far opposite side of the fort. In between, in the depressed portion, lay swathes of low jungle with vestiges of more stone structures. I traversed through the jungle by foot, and found the Moti Mahal in a desolate condition with the front of the palace overgrown with thorny bush and jungle, making it look like a prohibited place. However, adjoining the Moti Mahal, is located the Gopinath temple, dedicated to Krishna, with an attached dharamsala, teeming with some people, which made the adjunct palace look less hostile.

The Moti Mahal beckons from beyond the depressed portion of the fort enclosure

All this while, with my mind constantly racing about whether or not to enter the Moti Mahal, I kept lingering on the outside of the palace. It already being 4.30PM, with the prospect of darkness descending soon, I decided to take the plunge. With my heart in my mouth, wading through the thorny bush and jungle, I somehow managed to gain access into the palace, and was at first greeted by what looked like the king’s throne where he gave audience to the court. Walking through labyrinthine corridors and staircases, I managed to get access to the roof of the palace, from where I was treated to breathtaking views of the Shekhawat countryside chequered with low hills, and arid plains.

Around 5 PM, I descended from the roof of the Moti Mahal, intending to head back, and promptly lost my way through the labyrinthine corridors! After fumbling about in the low light, forced to use my mobile phone as a torch, for about 5 minutes, I was finally relieved to see that the exit had been present right before my very eyes – in my nervousness, I had simply not seen it! Exiting, I walked as fast as I could through the jungle to reach the fort’s entrance where my parents were waiting.

Wider view of the fort enclosure from Moti Mahal – the Sheesh Mahal and ruined structures strewn around are seen

As we drove back through Khetri town, we looked with fondness at the agglomeration of houses straddling the valley in the Aravallis. Here was a town that retained the charm and compactness of a British-era princely state, and yet was no stranger to modern flourishes. It was easy to see why the monk Vivekananda would have appreciated the coziness of this town ensconced in the Aravallis, spending here 3 months at a stretch. Surely we could come back to spend 3 weeks at the least, we concurred amongst ourselves.

Barely Bright and Bovine Encounters at Bayana Fort

Somehow, circumstances lead me into situations where I land up in remote places on the verge of sundown. This time, it was at the base of a high cliff atop which sat the Bayana fort, with fortification walls stretching for miles and miles. I learned about Bayana Fort only a few months ago from a book called ‘Forts of Rajasthan’, and had been itching to set foot on it since. It was quarter to five on this mid-November evening when I finally arrived at my destination, having driven for an eternity, having been slowed down by narrow winding roads, interrupted by a political rally, and rocked by an undulating last-mile dirt road.

As I stood at the bottom of the long flight of stony steps, with the last group of people having already descended, I mulled over whether it would be a prudent idea to climb uphill at this hour. Figuring I did have a small window of sunlight, I virtually ran up the tall, sloping steps, stopping mostly to catch my breath at each hairpin bend and sometimes to steer clear of the langurs. In 10 minutes, I was within the fort precincts, passing through multiple arched gates after almost a kilometre-long climb. The panoramic view of the countryside was breathtaking from that height.

Taking the steep and long climb into the fort head-on

Views of the countryside from the fort steps (left) and top of fort (right)

On the flat hilltop, flanked by jungle, stood several buildings in various stages of decay and a half-finished minar dedicated to Ibrahim Lodi. To say that I was scared out of my wits, owing to the lack of human presence, would be an understatement. Add to that the fear of wild animals and reptiles that could be lurking just around the corner. Could there also be a supernatural presence? As I waded through the jungle, I saw a figure emanating from behind a bush. I was almost happy, hoping for it to be human, but was startled to come face-to-face with a cow! I jumped aside, but the cow following the first one simply darted off, as if it had seen a ghost! Perhaps, nay, definitely, it was time to turn back now.

With darkness fast approaching, as I was descending down the stairs, I came face-to-face again with a long line of cows and buffaloes, making their way up, who simply refused to budge and let me pass. The stand-off continued for 10 minutes with me perched atop a ledge…till a calf, of all the bovines out there, decided to take the bull by its horns (pun intended) and took a few steps forward; the adults followed. I heaved a sigh of relief as the last one passed me by. With the sun already down, I hiked back, admiring the loftiness of the fort walls and the lushness of the landscape awash in the waning twilight while peacocks went about their evening walks.

******

Bayana is associated in the lore of Krishna with Banasur, and the precursor to the Bayana fort itself can be traced to 4th century AD at least, from some inscriptions found on the hill. However, the fortification was reinforced and the fort repaired by king Vijayapal in the 12th century AD who named it Vijaymandir. It subsequently fell to the Sultanate, then passed through the hands of the Lodis, and then the Mughals. The battle between Babur and Rana Sanga at nearby Khanwa proved to be a landmark event in the Mughal conquest of Northern India.

How to reach
While Bayana town itself is reachable from Delhi by public transport or by a 5 hour drive from Delhi, the fort, 8km away from the town, needs private transport to reach. Alternatively, one can also reach Bayana town and the fort from Agra by a 2.5 hour drive.

Aravalli Archives: Rajsamand, Rayta and Ranakpur

This August, we made a quick getaway to Udaipur, with the intention of exploring the Aravalli hill ranges in and around Udaipur. It was in the vicinity of Udaipur, while returning from Mount Abu, that I had fallen in love with the Aravallis. Though on my last trip to Udaipur – the only one since the Mount Abu trip – we had ventured into the Aravallis on our excursion to Kumbhalgarh, the fact that we had limited time and little influence over the cab driver quashed any hope of indulging my love for the Aravallis and exploring the hill ranges in and around Udaipur.

Nevertheless, now that we drove our own car, we would be constrained only by time, not by ability or ambition. So, starting off around 6.30 AM from Gurugram, taking the Ajmer Expressway, we had bypassed Jaipur by 11 AM, stopping at 12.30PM for a break just on the outskirts of Kishangarh. Resuming the journey, we had to make a choice between going by the Ajmer-Deogarh-Rajsamand route using NH 58 or through Bhilwara using NH 48, the latter being the one with greater average speed. However, my main interest being in driving by the Aravallis, we chose the one through NH 58 after ascertaining from locals about the condition of the road. And were we amply rewarded for the same!

Our brush with the Aravallis started from near Ajmer, and by the time we reached Beawar, where we stopped for lunch, we were already being accompanied by continuous ranges of the Aravallis. As seen from the satellite view of Google Maps, a long chain of the Aravallis begins from below Beawar and stretches in the south-westerly direction all the way to just above Udaipur, where again there is a pass in the hill ranges nestling the historic town of Gogunda. Another chain of Aravallis starts after this pass and stretches some distance into Gujarat, ending with the Polo forest.

So, as indicated by Google Maps, we were soon running alongside the foothills of the Aravallis after crossing Beawar. We slid up and down the undulating road and swerved left and right on the roading curving around the protrusions and along the cavities on the hillside. Patches of green clothed the yellowish-brown hillsides, while patches of green pasture interspersed with small and large ponds and punctuated by the occasional hamlet dotted the slope on the other side of the road. The road cut through the hillside at many places, but seldom bent into hairpin shapes. Crevices snuggling in the hillsides held dainty pools formed of rainwater, bearing blooming lilies and lotuses floating on a carpet of leaves.

The top oblong red oval encircles the top stretch of Aravallis. The bottom irregular oval marks the bottom stretch of Aravllis that runs around Udaipur and end in Gujarat. Beawar and Rajsamand are also marked.

Around 5.30 PM, we reached Rajsamand, a city lying 67 km before Udaipur on the foothills of the Aravallis, home to an expansive lake carved out in the hillside and fed by water dammed on the Gomti river. The construction of the Rajsamand lake was started by Maharana Raj Singh in 1662 AD, ending in 1676AD, and is the oldest known famine relief work in Rajasthan. The lake also served as a sea-plane base for Imperial Airways for its route from London to Sydney, and as an auxiliary base for the IAF during the Second World War. A marble pavillion-cum-garden called Nau Chakki adorns a section of the lakeside. Adjacent to it, lies a building called Maharana Raj Singh Panorama depicting a brief history of Rajsamand and glimpses from Raj Singh’s life while also displaying a part of a metallic chain used for anchoring the sea-planes in the lake.

A pond by the roadside on the way to Udaipur

As we approached Udaipur, with the Aravallis reaching majestic heights while wearing cloaks of green with stripes of yellow, the scenery became even more picturesque. Before long we had entered a tunnel near Chirwa, and were promptly stuck in hour-long traffic, finally reaching Udaipur at 8 PM. Following a failed attempt at dining at all of the lakeside restaurants on the Ambrai Ghat, we had dinner at a restaurant in the city, and retired for the night.

The next morning, we drove our way to the outskirts on the south-west direction of Udaipur, crossed a stream and then climbed up a narrow road winding around the hillside to reach a large flat expanse of meadows on the top of a high hill called Rayta. Amidst gusts of a cool breeze and chirps of birds, we were treated to breathtaking views of swathes of green reminiscent of images from Kashmir Valley, with the landscape rendered even punchier due to the monsoons. Leaving Rayta at around 12.30 PM, the descent from the hill was equally eventful as the scary ride up, thanks to the narrowness of the road forcing us to make a couple of crossing of vehicles coming from the opposite side with supreme caution.

Crossing a stream on the way to Rayta hill

Driving on, first by-passing Udaipur and then turning left towards and crossing Gogunda, we took a state highway running into the interiors of the Aravallis, reaching Sayra, where we reached a fork in the road – with the right leading to Kumbhalgarh, and the left leading to Ranakpur. From Sayra, we climbed higher up the Aravallis, subsequently crossing the crest of the hill range, and came upon a descent passing through jungle, given company by and criss-crossed by a couple of rivulets. Then negotiating a 15-minute descent comprising numerous steep curves and hairpin bends, we reached the base of the hill range, where lay a place had been sitting in my wish list since 2013 – Ranakpur.

Ranakpur, located on the side of the Maghai River, is home to the 15th century Chaturmukha Dharana Vihara, or simply called Ranakpur Jain temple, built entirely in marble. Construction of the temple dedicated to Adinatha, the first tirthankara, was commenced in 1446 AD by Dharna Shah, from the Porwal community under the patronage of Rana Kumbha, and ended in 1496 AD, fifty years later. Three other temples dedicated each to Parsvanatha, Neminatha and Mahavira stand in the temple complex, while a 13th century Sun temple sits outside the complex right at a cusp of the river. Sitting majestically in the jungle at the Aravalli foothills, this temple can easily be put alongside the Taj Mahal as a mediaeval wonder of India.

At 4.30 PM, we left Ranakpur to ride back up the series of steep hairpin bends to reach our abode for the night located on top of the hill range – a resort called Aranyawas. The resort comprising cottages built in multiple tiers is located on the side of one of the rivulets that I mentioned above, which in turn is a tributary of the aforementioned Maghai River. A deck at the back-edge of the the resort affords views of the hills across the rivulet and the surrounding forests, along with that of an anicut built on the rivulet. Later, taking a curving bridge we reached the large swimming pool that stood at a higher level as compared to the rest of the resort, providing a great 360-degrees view of the place.

In the morning, we took a tour of the kitchen garden nurtured amidst the jungle inside the premises of the resort. At 10.30 AM, leaving the resort, we again passed through Ranakpur taking highway running through Pali, on the side of the chain of Aravallis opposite the one we had taken on outward journey on the first day. By 2 PM, we were in Beawar again, choosing to have lunch at the same place as on our outward journey. At 4 PM, we reached Kishangarh, where we choose to take a little detour to see the Marble Slurry Dumpyard, which lends itself to a stunning landscape resembling that of a snow yard, with greenish pools of water scattered all over it.

View of the Marble Dumping Yard, Kishangarh

Moving on from Kishangarh, adventure still awaited us, since midway to Gurgaon after crossing Jaipur, we were met with traffic jams brought about my multiple stretches of road construction. At around 10 PM, with a final one hour long jam staring at us right before Bawal, an alternative route popped up on Google Maps diverting from right where we stood. Based on eye contact and a couple of lines of verbal communication with another person driving his family in his car, we took the diversion following one another, venturing into the desolate countryside. Thankfully, after a 15-minute drive through the potholed, sometimes, muddy interior roads, we were back again on the highway, having bypassed the traffic jam! By 11 PM, we were home.

Gagron, Ramgarh and Kalinjar: An Inquiry into the Antiquities of Upper Vindhya Range

The little one touched down in late February on his annual visit to the homeland, and as has been the family’s wont, we set out on another self-driven road trip. This time I wanted to introduce my little brother to the pink-splashed, fort-dotted landscape of Jaipur. But that was not all of the plan – the plan also included exploring the antiquities lying in the upper Vindhya hill ranges.

One of those long-distance trips that uncharacteristically start at noon, it was the perfect opportunity to check out the Delhi-Mumbai Expressway (DME) which had just opened for the public. And soon we would be in Jaipur and climbing the hairpin bends up the Aravallis to reach Nahargarh fort in pitch darkness.

Following a quick family sight-seeing session in Jaipur, we crossed the Chambal river & Kota city onto the tiger-rich Mukundra Hills in pursuit of a hill-cum-water fort which had eluded me in my last two attempts – once due to floods and the other time, due to paucity of time. We then proceeded to a geological marvel in the form of a Meteorite Impact Crater (MIC) in the middle of nowhere, which also is home to a mysterious ancient Shiva temple.

Then we skirted around the Kuno National Park to push into Bundelkhand, touching some places that formed the backdrop at crucial junctures in the history of Bundelkhand, as well as of British India. We then advanced to that land of exotic temples – Khajuraho, which would then lead us to an intriguing fort straight out of the scenes of an Indiana Jones movie.

Highlights of the trip

Gagron Fort

A 12th century hill fort that also doubles up as a water fort, by virtue of lying on the confluence of 2 rivers, with one river winding around the hill supporting the fort, giving protection by water on 3 sides. The fort itself is akin to a ship with the watchtower called Ram Burj situated at the fort’s edge where standing feels as if standing on a ship’s bow. The fort ramparts afford views of the sparsely vegetated rocky surface of the hill with the aquamarine Kali Sindh flowing along the hill base on one side and of the Ahu river on the other side. This fort rounds up for me, the six hill forts of Rajasthan that constitute a UNESCO World Heritage Site series.

Ramgarh Crater

A Meteorite Impact Crater (MIC) formed more than 600 million years ago. The site is characterized by a rim of hills in the shape of a circle with only a narrow pass providing access to the inner area. At the centre of the crater are the Bhand Devra Temple, a 10th century Shiva temple, and a pond abounding in water lilies and lotus. Once formally recognized by the Earth Impact Database, this would be the second largest MIC in India.

A perennial pond ensconced in the crater

Orchha

A sleepy yet historically ornate riverside town of Orchha, hidden away from the hustle & bustle of the main roads. The palace complex housing two large palaces, the Chaturbhuj temple and the chhatris (memorials) on the Betwa river evoke a sense of nostalgia for a time gone by. It was established by Bundelas in the 16th century AD and named so because it was apparently “hidden” inside forests.

Garh Kundar

An enigmatic palace perched atop a rocky outcrop in the Bundelkhand region that is accessed after driving for a long time in the wilderness. It served as the residence of the Bundelas before Orchha was founded. There also exists a legend of betrayal and beguiling intrigue between two warring clans, leading to the murder of a groom’s procession in the underground caverns of the fort.

Raneh Falls

A series of waterfalls in the canyon formed by the Ken river. One can see granite in varying shades of colours ranging from pink, red to grey.

Khajuraho

Perhaps, one of the best known places of India, home to picture-perfect temples with exquisite workmanship in the carvings and sculptures dotting the structures.

Kalinjar Fort

A place so ancient that it finds mention in mythological texts, with the fort being so important that it became the scene of many a battle and many an invasion, leading to its control passing through many dynasties from the Guptas, the Chedis during the times of Buddha to Mauryas to Chandelas to Mughals and finally to British hands.

The fort sits on a flat-top hill, sprawling across a vast area replete with forest, ponds, and palaces. However, the most remarkable of the monuments is a temple formed out of a cave in the hillside, with the entrance embellished with a ruined pillared stone structure. The stone steps leading down to the temple are adorned with figures and caves carved into the rocky hillside that immediately transport one into the realm of perilous treasure hunts portrayed in an Indiana Jones adventure.

The Neelkanth temple sits on the hillside, accessed by climbing down a flight of stairs

Road Trip at a glance

The Kachch Chronicles: Rann of Kachch and Dholavira

After many years of dreaming of and planning a trip to Kachch and failing – in the manner similar to how people do for Goa – we finally managed to freeze a five-day block in December convenient for all our family members. But of course, the preparations had to start three months in advance – what with booking train tickets, local conveyance and accommodation, owing to our plan falling in peak season. Our trip dates would also coincide with a full moon, an occasion highly recommended for spending the night on in the ‘white desert’, warranting iterating through multiple permutations and combinations before we could firm up our itinerary.

Part 1: Rani ki Vav, Patan and Sun Temple, Modhera

Finally, the day came, and we took the overnight Ahmedabad Rajdhani from Gurgaon, arriving in Ahmedabad at 9AM. Checking-in at our hotel, and freshening up, we were out around 1 PM headed north to Patan to see Rani ki Vav, an 11th century step-well. The stepwell has 7 layers of stairs leading to a deep circular well, with the walls, pillars, columns , brackets and beams carved exquisitely with depictions of numerous flower and animal motifs, besides those of the many Vishnu avatars and other Hindu gods and goddesses, and representing scenes from daily life. A short distance away from Rani ki Vav, are also remnants of other waterworks.

Leaving Patan around 4 PM, we headed to Modhera to see the 11th century Sun Temple, racing against time apprehensive of the fact that the temple would be closed by the time we reached Modhera. However, reaching Modhera around 5.3o PM, we learnt that the beauty of the finely built temple is enhanced manifold when the decorative lights dotting the complex, are turned on around sunset. Admiring the temple facade and the adjunct stone-built pool surface shining in the evening lights, we ended up lounging about for more time than we had budgeted for, and only left reluctantly for Ahmedabad around 7 PM.

Part 2: Dholavira

On Day 2, we started at 7 AM from Ahmedabad, headed to our first stop in Kachch – Dholavira. Pushing westward from Ahmedabad, we first passed Sanand, the automobile manufacturing hub, and then as were passing below the Little Rann of Kachch, the vegetation became gradually sparser with the ground turning increasingly brown. Then as we winded around the Little Rann to cross channels of the Little Rann draining into the Arabian Sea, we got a preview of the kind of topography we would soon be experiencing, with the vegetation becoming all but absent and the ground simply wearing a veneer of white as we got closer to the Rann of Kachch. Salt production was in full flow on both sides of the road.

Crossing Rapar, a major town in Kachch, we then swerved left with the vegetation turning green, yet still sparse, reminiscent of the Thar. At around 1 PM, the land suddenly turned white, under a shroud of salt stretching for miles on end, only punctuated by a low hill in the distance and the tar road we were on cutting across the white expanse in a straight line – we had now entered the Rann of Kachch Lake. Crossing the stretch of white land, we were soon upon the Khadir Bet Island, where the desert vegetation was back on display. By 2 PM, we were at the Rann Resort Dholavira, our stay for the night, located right at the coast on the opposite side of the island.

Entering the Rann of Kachch lake on the way to Khadir Bet island, where Dholavira is located

Gorging on Kathiawadi cuisine for lunch, we were soon headed out to our first site on the island – the Harappan city of Dholavira. The ruins at Dholavira have traces dating back pre-Harappan age (3500 – 2600 BC), with continuity till the post-urban Harappan age (1450 BC), when decline seems to have been set in. The site now manifests as a high flat mound formed on the ramparts and the many buildings located inside the rampart. A remarkable fact about the site is that the structures are mostly built of stone, as opposed to bricks in other Harappan sites. The Dholavira Museum located onsite showcases the finds from excavations carried out at Dholavira, and is a must-visit for anyone interested to know more about the site.

As one walks to the edge on the north side of the mound, one can see the Khadir Bet’s low mountains and desert vegetation in the distance. Below is another entry to the city where a wooden signboard showing various Harappan symbols made from gypsum was found – it is now called the ‘Dholavira signboard’ and believed to have depicted the then-name of the city. Further, the strategic location of the city between two seasonal streams, Mansar and Manhar, and the scarcity of water, entailed the construction of dams and clever usage of multi-staged reservoirs enabling storage, filtration and pumping of water. The reservoirs can be found on the south-side of the city.

The mound formed on the of Harappan city of Dholavira

With it now already being 5.30 PM, we rode along the western coast of the island in a rush to see the sunset from the northern-most point on the island, from a location dubbed, unsurprisingly, the sunset point. In a race that we lost with time, we had to be content with seeing the sun setting from the road itself, although we did subsequently reach the sunset point to get a most exquisite view of the white marshy surface of Rann of Kachh Lake, stretching to the horizon, bathing in the twilight, with flamingoes lounging about in the distance with the back-drop of a small hillock jutting out from the white surface.

Twilight at Sunset point near Dholavira, Khadir Bet island

More high points were about to come later – after midnight, we headed straight into Rann of Kachch Lake on a road under construction linking the island to the other side of the lake, stopping at a point around 7 km out. Under the full moon, the salt-covered white surface shimmered and shone as far as our eyes could see, the horizon melding seamlessly with the night sky. With the winter chill hanging over the land, a foray into the vast expanse of white nothingness bathing in the moonlight is a must-have experience, especially on a full moon night.

Full moon night on the Rann of Kachch lake, notice anything?

We followed up the late night adventure with a sojourn at 5.30 AM the next morning to the same point, this time, to see the sunrise, and were promptly treated to a fascinating view of the sun in ascendance in the east and the moon still hanging around in the west, at the same time. Further up the road, where the surface was marshier because the surface had not dried up completely, we saw a flamboyance of flamingoes. However, the deeper into the lake we waded through the marshy water to get a closer look at the flamingoes, the farther the flamingoes kept moving from us – preventing us from taking clearer pictures of the flamingoes through our mobile phones! Already 8 AM now, we headed back to the resort.

Part 3: Rann of Kachch and Bhuj

Starting 11 AM, i.e. on Day 3, following breakfast, we drove down the same road, third time already in two days, but now headed to the other side of the lake. Cutting across the lake on the aforementioned road dubbed ‘Road to Heaven’, we stopped a couple of times to take photos in the white expanse, before reaching the mainland after a drive of 30 km. The desert topography with sparse vegetation was back again, supplemented by low corrugated hills running alongside us on our right . Reaching Khavda, where we fueled-up just at the verge of our vehicle’s fuel tank going completely empty, we turned north.

The Road to Heaven connecting the Khadir Bet island to the mainland on the west

Our next stop was the highest point on this hill range, in fact, the highest point in all of Kachch – Kalo Dungar, literally, Black Hill, which we reached after driving up a winding road with a gentle slope. Standing atop Kalo Dungar, we got a panoramic view of the Rann of Kachch lake spread from one end to the other with its periphery defined only by the horizon.Descending from Kalo Dungar, we headed to our next accommodation, Kutir Craft Village, Hodka, located amidst the Banni Grasslands ecological system. Here again, we had a sumptuous Kachchi meal, and retired to our Bhungas, the traditional circular mud-huts, surrounded by thatched roofs, typical of the Kachch, with floors made of compacted dried cow-dung.

Desert landscape of Kachch, on the way to Kalo Dungar hill

About 15 km north of Hodka, runs a band of salt flats of the Rann of Kachch, stretching from the Rann of Kachch lake on one side to the Arabian sea on the other, in the midst of which lies Dhordho, where the annual Rann Festival is held. This band of salt flats along with the Rann of Kachch Lake, together form the Rann of Kachch, Rann literally meaning desert. The Rann of Kachch is basically a marshy wetland that gets submerged in water during the monsoons, and the surface turns into white salt flats due to sedimentation of salt when the water evaporates in the dry season, which is why even the lake has salt-flats stretching for miles.

On Day 4, we started from our resort in Hodka for Bhuj, the capital of Kachch region. Founded in 151o AD by Rao Hamir and made the capital of Kachch in 1548, Bhuj, despite acknowledging Mughal supremacy, had to face multiple attacks at different times, and has been also ravaged by major earthquakes at various points of time, the latest being in 2001. At Bhuj, we first saw the Prag Mahal, a 19th century palace, now converted into a museum. Then, driving along the Hamirsar Lake, we reached the 19th century Kutch Musuem, which showcases artifacts ranging across archaeology, history, geography, the local culture and all things Kachch.

A view from the roof of Prag Mahal, Bhuj

Part 4: Little Rann of Kachch

Following a sumptuous unlimited Gujarati thali meal, covering a distance of 260 km, which included winding around the southern edge of Little Rann of Kachch, and then turning north, we reached – at around 8 PM – Bhavna Resorts and Farm, in Patdi, located at the edge of the Little Rann of Kachch. Early next morning at 6 AM, i.e on Day 5, as planned, we set off, armed with packed breakfasts, snug in our jackets, on an open-jeep safari to the Wild Ass Sanctuary located in the Little Rann. The Little Rann of Kachch and its surrounding areas are the only habitat of the Indian Wild Ass currently numbering about 2100, with the Wild Ass Sanctuary established to preserve the endangered species.

Accessing the sanctuary from the entrance at Bajana, we first drove over the sparsely grassed brown-coloured land for about a couple of kilometres in, as more shrub started appearing, we chanced upon numerous droves of the wild ass, most of them nonchalantly grazing away, and some frolicking and some rolling on the ground. As we approached them to take a closer look, the wild ass kept moving farther away. Driving further, we were awed by another form of desert – this time with a surface of mud-cracks, i.e. a mud desert. Driving for a while on the mud-cracks we reached a water-body where a pod of pelicans were lazily gliding away. Driving further up to a very large water-body, we came upon a very large population of flamingoes – and decided to have our breakfast while flamingo-watching!

A drove of Indian Wild Ass having their time in the morning sun, Wild Ass Sanctuary, Little Rann

Following breakfast, we proceeded to the last section of the safari – salt-pans where salt suitable for human consumption is produced. A salt farmer explained to us the process of how after monsoons, brine water is extracted from the ground using pumps and then diverted towards the salt-pans, rectangular or square in shape with embankment on all sides, then, left for months altogether to let the water evaporate naturally, even as the solution of water and sediment left behind becomes gradually more concentrated – by March-April, the salt is ready to be commercially transported and sold.

The salt farmers, otherwise living elsewhere, themselves only come to live beside salt-pans in make-shift shanties during salt production and harvesting season. In December, which is when we visited, the salt crystals were only beginning to form. To demonstrate the phenomenon, the salt farmer took us to one of the saltpans, dipped his hand in the water and drew out a flamingo feather laced with salt crystals along its length – an amazing thing to behold! That being an apt parting sight, we bid adieu to the Little Rann, and to Kachch, as we headed back to Ahmedabad to catch the 7 PM Rajdhani Express for Gurgaon.

Travel Guide

Reaching Dholavira

Located on an island in the middle of a marshy lake, the only way to reach here is by road. You can drive down from Ahmedabad (a 7 hour journey) if driving from the east of Gujarat.
If you were coming from Bhuj or Dhordo, it is about 2 hours and 1 hour respectively, provided you take the ‘Road to Heaven’ or the Khavda-Dholavira road. In fact, in dry season, the ‘Road to Heaven’ is a must-see/must-ride!
Bhuj, in turn, can be reached by train or road from any major city in Gujarat. Also, a train originating from Delhi runs to Bhuj. Bhuj also is connected by air through direct and connecting flights from major cities in India.

Reaching Rann of Kachch

To access Rann of Kachch, you are looking to put up at a village nearby (Dhordho or Hodka) or at Bhuj. In fact, Dhordho and Hodka, lie in between the Bhuj and the Rann, and can be accessed by road.

Reaching Wild Ass Sanctuary/Little Rann of Kachch

This is a tricky one, as there are two entrances – Dhrangadhra on the south of the Little Rann and Bajana on the east side. It is possible to make a day trip to the Little Rann/Wild Ass Sanctuary from Ahmedabad by road or train – but if you’re taking the train, you will need to make a choice between Dhrangadhra station (for the Dhangadhra entrance) or Viramgam station (for the Bajana entrance).
Dhrangadhra lies on the Ahmedabad-Bhuj highway, thereby reachable by public transport bus.
Alternatively, you can put up at any of the resorts near Patdi, Zaianabad or Dasada which are near the Bajana entrance – the resort can facilitate a safari. Safari price ranges as in 2023 ranged from Rs. 400 per jeep/car (Rs. 500 on weekends) to Rs. 3500 per heavy motor vehicle (Rs. 4375 on weekends), with additional fees of Rs. 300 for a guide, and Rs. 200 for taking in a camera.

Trip Summary

Day 1:
Ahmedabad to Patan, then Modhera, then back to Ahmedabad.
Overnight stay in Ahmedabad.

Day 2:
Ahmedabad to Dholavira (on Khadir Bet island), via Sanand and Rapar.
Sightseeing at Harappan site of Dholavira and sunset watching on the coast.
Overnight stay in Rann Resort Dholavira.

Day 3:
Dholavira to Kalo Dungar via Road to Heaven and Khavda, then to Hodka.
Hodka to Dhordho for seeing salt flats of the Rann.
Overnight stay in Kutir Craft Village, Hodka.

Day 4:
Hodka to Bhuj, sightseeing in Bhuj, then to Patdi via Dhrangadhra.
Overnight stay in Bhavna Resorts and Farms, Patdi.

Day 5:
Safari to Wild Ass Sanctuary from Bajana side, then to Ahmedabad.

Trip Map

Odisha to Delhi via Madhya Pradesh: Tale of a 3250km Cross Country Drive

2022 turned out to be the year where I did things that I had only ever dreamt of doing – a self-driven cross-country trip!

In late October, around Diwali, I drove my parents through a 3250+ km trip from Bhubaneswar to Gurgaon via Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh.

Throughout 2021, while the pandemic was still raging, and concern for my parents back in Odisha constantly kept me on the edge, I mulled the idea many times of driving down to Bhubaneswar from Gurgaon. Little did I know that when the occasion to make the cross-country road trip eventually came, it would be in the reverse direction!

With our new car gathering dust in Odisha, and the family travelling suppressed for more than 2 years, what better way than a cross country road trip to accumulate some miles on the Blue Buck?

As usual, we had only an idea of the stops we would be taking and the route in general, and no advance reservations. The early winter weather was great, we discovered places to see as we advanced.

This is how we stumbled upon the quaint, ancient town of Sirpur on the banks of the Mahanadi, abounding in Shiva temples and Buddhist monasteries. We then took a detour to the Bhoramdeo temple, equalling Khajuraho in artistry, tucked away in a forest by a foothill. And of course, we veered off course for a pilgrimage to the birthplace of Kishore Kumar, who my Dad and I both idolize.

Unfortunately, Google Maps only allows 10 locations, and the route charted does not account for an additional 400km that we gathered exploring local places, over 10 days.

Each major location deserves an individual post to present the place in its fullest glory. In fact, neither a single post, nor the pictures do justice to the beauty, the mystique and the serenity we experienced as we drove through these places.

Sirpur

an ancient town, an important settlement of the South Kosala kingdom located on the Mahanadi river, the capital of the Panduvanshi dynasty, a major town of South Kosala kingdom. It saw its glory days from the 5th to the 12th century AD and is home to numerous Shiva,Vishnu and Shakti temples, Buddhist and Jain monasteries.

Surang Tila, multiple temples sit on the high platform accessed by steep steps

Bhoramdeo temple

11th century AD Shiva temple, built in the style of the Khajuraho and Konark temples, also nicknamed ‘Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh. It lies at the edge of the forest at the foothills of a hill range that is traversed through the Chilpi ghat.

The drive through Chilpi Ghat makes you cut across this dense jungle abounding in natural beauty & wildlife.

Jabalpur

Marble Rocks in the Narmada river at Bedaghat, in a ravine formed in the hills replete with marble stone

Madan Mahal fort (12th century AD), Chausath Yogini temple (11th century AD), Dhuandhar waterfalls

We happened to witness the Solar Eclipse on our way to Vidisha from Jabalpur.

Vidisha

Udaygiri caves, 4th-5th century AD cave complex containing caves with Hindu sculptures (Hindu gods, especially, avatars of Vishnu) as well as Jain sculptures, located on a small hill

Sanchi

A World Heritage site, with Multiple large stupas dating back to Ashoka’s time (3rd century BC), and Buddhist monasteries dating from

Raisen (near Bhopal)

Raisen fort, an imposing 11th century fort

Bhimbetka rock shelters

A complex of rock shelters on a hill near Bhopal, which contain paintings made by humans from both the prehistoric as well as historic ages

Bhojeswar temple

A 11th century Shiva temple,housing one of the largest Shiva lingas, commissioned by the legendary Raja Bhoja

Ashapuri group of temples

A group of 26 temples, currently in ruins, not very far away from the Bhojeswar temple. They were probably built under the patronage of the Pratiharas and the Parmaras. Their location on the shore of a lake points towards a luxurious setting during its prime, although the site itself would have been of ritualistic purpose.

A ruined temple lying on the lakeside at Ashapuri

Ujjain

Home to the Mahakaleswar jyotilinga (one of the 12 jyotirlingas), a city of antiquity, capital of the Avanti kingdom, one of the Great Realms of ancient India. Also associated with the mythical King Vikramaditya, of Vikram & Betaal fame.

A statue depicting the mythical king Vikramaditya

Omkareswar

The site of the other jyotirlnga in Madhya Pradesh, Home to the Omkareswar and Mamaleswar temples dedicated to Shiva, located on the Narmada river

Khandwa

A small town in Madhya Pradesh, birthplace of the legendary Kishore Kumar

Gwalior

Bateswar group of temples, a complex containing more than 200 small and large Shiva temples, stacked in tiers., built between 8th to 12th century AD. The complex lies in the cove of a hill, with very little habitation around. The temple complex was restored by the ASI with the help of dacoits.

Read my account of a previous trip to Bateswar here: https://thetimbertrawler.com/2019/03/15/in-search-of-the-treasures-of-bundelkhand-chanderi-deogarh-morena/

Glimpse of the trip