2022 turned out to be the year where I did things that I had only ever dreamt of doing – a self-driven cross-country trip!
In late October, around Diwali, I drove my parents through a 3250+ km trip from Bhubaneswar to Gurgaon via Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh.
Throughout 2021, while the pandemic was still raging, and concern for my parents back in Odisha constantly kept me on the edge, I mulled the idea many times of driving down to Bhubaneswar from Gurgaon. Little did I know that when the occasion to make the cross-country road trip eventually came, it would be in the reverse direction!
With our new car gathering dust in Odisha, and the family travelling suppressed for more than 2 years, what better way than a cross country road trip to accumulate some miles on the Blue Buck?
As usual, we had only an idea of the stops we would be taking and the route in general, and no advance reservations. The early winter weather was great, we discovered places to see as we advanced.
This is how we stumbled upon the quaint, ancient town of Sirpur on the banks of the Mahanadi, abounding in Shiva temples and Buddhist monasteries. We then took a detour to the Bhoramdeo temple, equalling Khajuraho in artistry, tucked away in a forest by a foothill. And of course, we veered off course for a pilgrimage to the birthplace of Kishore Kumar, who my Dad and I both idolize.
Unfortunately, Google Maps only allows 10 locations, and the route charted does not account for an additional 400km that we gathered exploring local places, over 10 days.
Each major location deserves an individual post to present the place in its fullest glory. In fact, neither a single post, nor the pictures do justice to the beauty, the mystique and the serenity we experienced as we drove through these places.
Sirpur
an ancient town, an important settlement of the South Kosala kingdom located on the Mahanadi river, the capital of the Panduvanshi dynasty, a major town of South Kosala kingdom. It saw its glory days from the 5th to the 12th century AD and is home to numerous Shiva,Vishnu and Shakti temples, Buddhist and Jain monasteries.
Bhoramdeo temple
11th century AD Shiva temple, built in the style of the Khajuraho and Konark temples, also nicknamed ‘Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh. It lies at the edge of the forest at the foothills of a hill range that is traversed through the Chilpi ghat.
The drive through Chilpi Ghat makes you cut across this dense jungle abounding in natural beauty & wildlife.
Jabalpur
Marble Rocks in the Narmada river at Bedaghat, in a ravine formed in the hills replete with marble stone
Madan Mahal fort (12th century AD), Chausath Yogini temple (11th century AD), Dhuandhar waterfalls
We happened to witness the Solar Eclipse on our way to Vidisha from Jabalpur.
Vidisha
Udaygiri caves, 4th-5th century AD cave complex containing caves with Hindu sculptures (Hindu gods, especially, avatars of Vishnu) as well as Jain sculptures, located on a small hill
Sanchi
A World Heritage site, with Multiple large stupas dating back to Ashoka’s time (3rd century BC), and Buddhist monasteries dating from
Raisen (near Bhopal)
Raisen fort, an imposing 11th century fort
Bhimbetka rock shelters
A complex of rock shelters on a hill near Bhopal, which contain paintings made by humans from both the prehistoric as well as historic ages
Bhojeswar temple
A 11th century Shiva temple,housing one of the largest Shiva lingas, commissioned by the legendary Raja Bhoja
Ashapuri group of temples
A group of 26 temples, currently in ruins, not very far away from the Bhojeswar temple. They were probably built under the patronage of the Pratiharas and the Parmaras. Their location on the shore of a lake points towards a luxurious setting during its prime, although the site itself would have been of ritualistic purpose.
Ujjain
Home to the Mahakaleswar jyotilinga (one of the 12 jyotirlingas), a city of antiquity, capital of the Avanti kingdom, one of the Great Realms of ancient India. Also associated with the mythical King Vikramaditya, of Vikram & Betaal fame.
Omkareswar
The site of the other jyotirlnga in Madhya Pradesh, Home to the Omkareswar and Mamaleswar temples dedicated to Shiva, located on the Narmada river
Khandwa
A small town in Madhya Pradesh, birthplace of the legendary Kishore Kumar
Gwalior
Bateswar group of temples, a complex containing more than 200 small and large Shiva temples, stacked in tiers., built between 8th to 12th century AD. The complex lies in the cove of a hill, with very little habitation around. The temple complex was restored by the ASI with the help of dacoits.
Read my account of a previous trip to Bateswar here: https://thetimbertrawler.com/2019/03/15/in-search-of-the-treasures-of-bundelkhand-chanderi-deogarh-morena/
Glimpse of the trip
The Timber Trawler 