Of Steps, a Stepwell and a Salt Lake: Bairat, Abhaneri and Sambhar

In August-end, a full month after the 2nd vaccine shot, we finally gathered the courage to venture out on a 1000+km road trip. It would also be my first ever 1000+km driving on my own, after having learnt driving a few months prior. Moving to the suburbs of Gurgaon has meant that I now live at the gateway to my most favourite area of this great country – Rajasthan (though it only ties with Odisha for my affection!). So, it was only natural that my first long drive be to places in Rajasthan that have been on my bucket list for ages now.

Beejak ki Pahadi, Bairat

In a nook in the Aravallis, near a town called Bairat, are remains of a Buddhist Monastery of unknown antiquity, where Ashokan inscriptions from around 3rd century BC have been found. It can be reached by veering off the Delhi-Jaipur Expressway 70km before Jaipur on NH 248A, then taking a right turn onto a narrow road from Bairat town, and finally, taking a mix of long flight of steps and ramps to the top of a hill.

Bairat or erstwhile Viratnagar itself is said to have been founded by King Virata, in whose kingdom the five Pandavas (of Mahabharata) spent the thirteenth year of their exile in disguise. The site of the monastery affords a majestic view of the valley below and undulating hills on the horizon.

P.S.: I came to know later that this is one of the oldest places of worship that we have recorded history of in India .

Abhaneri

A quaint little village south of Alwar that is home to an exquisite stepwell, Chand Baori, an engineering marvel in its own right and a well regarded temple dedicated to Harshat Mata. Both of these monuments are said to be 1200 years old – the stepwell’s beauty is something that can only be grasped upon seeing for oneself.

Sambhar Lake

A place that had been on my wish list since I was a schoolboy – it contributes roughly 9% of India’s total salt production and plays host to migratory birds. With swathes of white stretching as far as the eye can see, one cannot be far off calling this a mini Rann-of-Kachh. I had heard that one could spot flamingos here, but nothing had prepared me for the sight of thousands and thousands of flamingos resembling a pink stripe stretching from one end to the other. Now, if only I had binoculars, or even a DSLR camera, at hand!

Pushkar

The holy city, according to legend, was the only place where Brahma would be worshipped as per Savitri’s curse (though a few more Brahma temples have cropped up elsewhere since). Also, as per legend, the Pushkar Lake was the source of the mythical Sarasvati river. Pushkar is nestled within the Aravallis, with amazing views of the hills against the clear skies. Another major attraction is the annual camel fair held here.

Ajmer

Separated from Pushkar by Aravallis and connected by a pass called the Pushkar Ghati, Ajmer is home to Dargah Ajmer Sharif and a gargantuan lake. Unfortunately, we could not visit any place in Ajmer.

Kishangarh

The capital of a former princely state of the same name, home to an elegant looking fort, which unfortunately is not open to tourists, and the vast Gundolav lake reminiscent of the lakes of Udaipur. Just outside the city is a National Geological Monument dedicated to Nepheline Syenite, traces of which dating back to 1590 million years to 1910 million years can be found.

Trip Summary

Day 1
Gurgaon to Beejak Ki Pahari – 165 km, 4 hours
Beejak ki Pahari to Abhaneri – 120 km, 3 hours
Abhaneri to Ajmer – 250 km, 4 hours

Day 2
Ajmer to Sambhar Lake – 100km, 2.5 hours
Sambhar Lake to Pushkar – 105 km, 2.5 hours

Day 3
Pushkar to Kishangarh – 40km, 1 hour
Kishangarh to Gurgaon – 360km, 8 hours

Total – 1140km

How to reach Beejak ki Pahadi
No public transport available, so you will have to use your private transportation (personal vehicle or cab). It is a 5 hour drive from Delhi, 2 hour drive from Jaipur.

How to reach Sambhar Lake
While there is a handful of trains from Jaipur to Sambhar Lake railway station, the timings may not be suitable for a day trip. Moreover, seeing around Sambhar Lake area after getting down from the Sambhar Lake station might be a hassle due to paucity of local transport options. In the absence of public transport, you would want to either use your personal vehicle or cab. It is a 1.5 hour drive from Jaipur.

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